Where horological innovation is concerned, Rolex has always led the way with timeless designs and intentional innovations. Of its crème de la crème lineup, the Rolex Milgauss is the standout—not just for technical perfection, but also for its intriguing aesthetic beauty and science-based fascinating history. In this article, we’ll take an in-depth look at the Rolex Milgauss, explore Milgauss pricing, understand the Oyster Perpetual DNA, and highlight the charming rarity of the Milgauss white dial variant.
The Story Behind the Rolex Milgauss
The Rolex Milgauss was introduced in 1956 and was a watch designed particularly for scientists, engineers, and medical staff working in magnetic environments that would interfere with the standard mechanical watch. Magnetic fields above 50 to 100 gauss during those days could make the accuracy of a watch severely affected. The Milgauss, named for its ability to withstand 1,000 gauss (“mille” is French for “thousand”), did this by housing a Faraday cage inside the case to shield the movement from magnetic disturbance.
The watch soon found popularity among scientists working at the CERN (European Organization for Nuclear Research) and became a hit among science experts. Years went by, and the Milgauss continued to be a cult classic—bold in looks, utilitarian in function, and full of panache.
Rolex Milgauss Design & Features
It’s really the Milgauss’s unique but refined design that allows it to stand out among all of the other Rolex watches. It doesn’t try to blend in—instead, it stands out.
Key Design Features:
Lightning Bolt Seconds Hand: a sharp orange, zig-zag second hand that is representative of electricity—a burst of brilliance referencing the watch itself as anti-magnetic.
Green Sapphire Crystal: A indulgence reserved exclusively for the Milgauss, its green crystal adds an extra touch of beauty and is resistant to scratches.
Polished 904L Oystersteel Case: Made to endure the tests of time as much as corrosion, paired with a slender three-link Oyster bracelet.
100m Water Resistance: Perfect for daily wear as well as recreational water sports.
Inside the case is the Rolex Caliber 3131, an automatic self-winding movement with a 48-hour power reserve. The movement has a paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring to further protect it from magnetic forces.
Rolex Milgauss Oyster Perpetual Heritage
The Milgauss is a member of the Oyster Perpetual family, and this says everything about its build and durability. “Oyster” in the name indicates Rolex’s patented waterproof case innovation from 1926, and “Perpetual” indicates the automatic self-winding mechanism.
Being a member of the Oyster Perpetual family, the Milgauss is:
- Constructed with a monobloc middle case for enhanced protection
- Equipped with a screw-down Twinlock crown for water resistance
- Fitted with Rolex’s perpetual rotor mechanism to maintain energy efficiency
Although the Milgauss sports a niche draw compared to such other watches as the Datejust or Submariner, it is related to the Oyster Perpetual line to provide the finest handiwork and longevity.
Rolex Milgauss Prices: How Much Does It Cost?
Current Rolex Milgauss Prices in 2025
As of early 2025, the Rolex Milgauss is no longer produced, so current models are that much more desirable in the grey and pre-owned markets. Below is a summary of what you can expect to pay:
Retail Price (When Available)
- Milgauss 116400GV (Z-Blue Dial): ~$9,300 USD
- Milgauss 116400GV (Black Dial): ~$9,300 USD
- Milgauss 116400 (White Dial): Discontinued ages ago, no retail pricing today
Rolex officially discontinued the Milgauss in 2023, which has had a major effect on secondary market pricing.
Note: Rolex discontinued the white dial Milgauss in recent years, which has only fueled demand and pricing on the secondary market.
Prices vary based on condition, box and papers, year of production, and whether the watch has the green sapphire crystal or not.
The Rare and Elegant Rolex Milgauss White Dial
While the Z-Blue and black dials are where the spotlight shines today, the Rolex Milgauss white dial is a hidden gem. Produced in the early 2010s, this model is now more and more becoming a collector’s item.
Why is the white dial unique?
Clean Aesthetic: The white background provides a clean, professional appearance, which makes it even more versatile for dress occasions.
Orange Accents: Vibrant orange hour markers and lightning bolt seconds hand stand out stunningly against the white face.
Low Production Numbers: Because it wasn’t as well-received when it debuted, fewer were made, making it more valuable today.
Collectors and enthusiasts now look at the white dial Milgauss as a “sleeper hit” in the Rolex lineup—one that wasn’t fully appreciated in its day, but is now in great demand.
Why Choose the Milgauss Over Other Rolex Models?
Whereas models such as the Submariner and GMT-Master II have broad appeal, the Milgauss provides something different.
Reasons to Opt for the Milgauss:
- You desire a Rolex that few people possess.
- You appreciate scientific ingenuity and uniqueness.
- You enjoy bold design elements such as the lightning bolt hand and green sapphire.
You’re looking for a Rolex that could potentially increase in value because it’s not as mainstream.
It’s a conversation piece—a watch for thinkers, creatives, and professionals who appreciate both precision and personality.
Is the Milgauss a Good Investment?
Historically, the Milgauss has been a slow burn with regard to investment. But with growing collectors looking for rare or underappreciated Rolex references, models such as the Milgauss (particularly the white dial or Z-Blue) are appreciating.
Investment Highlights:
- Discontinued pieces, such as the white dial, are rising in market price.
- Rolex’s limited and slow production maintains demand high.
- Uncommon design sets it apart from mass-market Rolex models.
If you want a Rolex that’s collectible while remaining stylish, the Milgauss is a strong candidate.
Final Thoughts: The Milgauss Is Science, Style, and Sophistication
The Rolex Milgauss is not your typical Rolex—and that’s precisely why it’s so attractive to a certain, devoted crowd. Rooted in science, yet founded on the Oyster Perpetual tradition, and featuring forceful aesthetic touches such as the lightning bolt seconds hand and green crystal, the Milgauss is both a technical wonder and a fashion statement.
Whether you’re drawn to the vibrant Z-Blue, sleek black, or the rare and sophisticated white dial, owning a Milgauss means embracing Rolex heritage while making a unique choice that reflects individuality.
So if you’re looking for a watch that’s more than a timepiece—one that embodies creativity, innovation, and ageless design—the Rolex Milgauss is worth a place on your wrist.
